I use a white eye shadow to highlight below the eye brow, thickest at the outer half but sure to include the upper/inner corners of the eye socket just below where the eyebrows start.
A dab of white at the inner corners of the eyes can help make them "pop"
I then use a brown eye pencil to draw and emphasize the eye brows in the shape desired.
Next, I apply liquid eyeliner to the upper eye lid. I start just beyond the inner corner of the eye, near the nose and draw an ever thickening line to the outside of the eye and slightly beyond. I then use the liquid eye liner beneath the lower lid but just for the outer third, merging it with the upper line.
I use a pencil eye liner to line the inside of the lower lid and also just below the lower lashes, connecting the starting point of the upper liner to the liquid liner on the lower, outside third of the eye. To give it a slightly “smokey” look and to hide any mistakes I’ve made, I use a q-tip to blur all the lines above and below. And finally dab a little mascara on the upper and lower lashes.
I use 2 different foundations. I use one that is lighter for the eye sockets, down to the cheekbones and outwards to just above the ears. I also use it across the top of the bridge of the nose to help highlight the brow ridge I have there that casts a little shadow. I use the darker foundation on all of the rest of the face and neck, even going right over the top of the previously applied beard cover. After applying, I blend the two where they meet. I think it’s important to not use a foundation that is too bright for around the eyes. You want to make the deeper male eye sockets less dark but not be obvious about it.
I usually use false eyelashes. I’ve had trouble getting them to stick they way they should so I apply little dabs of glue directly to the eyelid just above the natural lashes. I know this isn’t the correct way but the lashes stick better. Unfortunately the glue can be harder to remove this way as it might get between your natural lashes and won’t just come off with the false lashes like when the glue is applied to the false lashes the way it should be. Also, you have to be careful not to get the glue in the eye itself. The lash is applied over the outer 2/3 of the eye ending at the outer corner of the eye.
I often get asked about how I do my makeup or what products I use. Doing a live tutorial, showing my face at the start without makeup, is not possible right now but I think the simple drawings should give you the right idea. I used similar drawings to learn, and still refer to them.
The products I use can vary and I don’t pay a lot of attention to brands but I’ll show you what I use currently.
Put on your favorite wig and earrings and you are gorgeous!
Fill in the lips with a lipstick of a similar color but a little lighter shade. I use the butt end of the lip liner to blend the lipstick and liner
Next, I apply a dark eye shadow over the outside half of the eye lid, draw it out beyond the eye a little fading into a point not quite as far as the temple. I apply a little below the lower, outside third of the eye also ending at the same point near the temple. Finally, I apply a little from the temple point across the eye socket bone (just above the eye lid crease) and ending before reaching the bridge of the nose.
I’ve used a variety of different products as beard cover. Whatever you use, try to get one that is close to the same color as your foundation. When applying, and this goes for everything you do to your face, use downward and outward strokes to keep from brushing “against the grain” of the facial hair.
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Line the lips. Starting at the center of the bottom lip just OUTSIDE the natural lip draw toward the corners of the mouth, ending just INSIDE the natural lip. The upper lip is done similarly with the sides being just inside the natural lip and the “bow” drawn just above the natural lip. I try to not play with the shape of the upper lip too much.
I use a contouring powder to shade the jaw. I start at the point below the ear and brush a half circle of shading that is gradually lighter towards the outer portions of the circle…ie. closer to the center of the face. I then lightly do the same with a pink blush to give it come color. I do not like the look of the harsh line of blush under the cheekbone. More is applied linearly along the jaw line and the bottom of the chin to minimize them and make them appear more round.
Using the same contouring powder, I dab a little above the ball of the nose to make the end appear more of a ball. I use a little more below the nose to make the upper lip appear more concave. Then I apply more all around the borders of the face especially near the hairline and down the sides of the forehead.
I also apply some over the tops of the brow ridges to try to de-accentuate where they tend to catch light.
I use a highlighting powder to highlight the cheekbones, again extending to outward to the top of the ear, and also I use it along the sides of the nose. Most makeup tutorials for women say to shade the sides of the nose to make it look thinner but men’s noses, or at least mine, is larger and thinner than a woman’s so I need to do just the opposite.
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Blend everything! Add powder to the entire face to “set” the makeup and to help with the blending. Pay special attention t the forehead. As described above be sure to brush “with the grain” away from the center of the face.
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